At dusk, we entered a small town called S. that had been taken that day. I, colonel Petrovic, the commander of the second battalion, his driv¬er and a person from Belgrade called Markica were in a carelessly paint¬ed greyish-olive jeep with its previous white, UN colour showing through. Everyone in the brigade called Markica Aids. He was a thin and pale young man who was with Arkan when the war started. He was dressed up as if going to a parade, and over his back he had a long dag¬ger just like some post-apocalyptic samurai, even though it made the ride unbearable for him.
When we entered the town, Petrovic said that we should make a few rounds across the peaceful town which was slowly sinking into darkness, like a ship enveloped in fog. There was no one to be seen in the dark, short streets. On our right, a group of houses was burning down. The wind would stir the flames a little bit and it made the burning houses look like giant fireflies.
The colonel ordered the driver to stop next to an ugly three-storey house. All three of us got out of the car. He told us that he lived in that typical, grey, socialistic house before the war. Then he went inside carrying a flashlight. Markica took his gun and followed him inside while I stayed outside.
I could hear them walking on broken glass inside. There was nobody in the street and I only heard some distant voices but I couldn't understand what they were saying. Across the street the wind played a game with a white shirt hanging on a rope. It reminded me of a white flag. A little bit below, on the same building which looked just like the one where they entered there was a sentence written in large letters: "Understand once and for all, this is Bosnia!". Right underneath there was a drawing of a shield with a lily on it. All the windows on the building were broken and some of them were replaced with plastic coverings which had a dirty, milky colour in the dark and reminded me of a cataract on a dead man's eyes. Around the edges of this building, which blocked the sight of the burning houses, there was a halo of soft light.
Petrovic returned after ten minutes. He carried a stack of paper and a bottle of slivovitz in his hands. Markica was still inside, we could hear his walking inside the building. We sat on the sidewalk with our backs turned to the colonel's house. He opened the bottle and we started taking turns drinking the bad, sour slivovitz. Then he showed me the papers he had in his hand.
"This is all I could find that belonged to me," he said.
He handed me a photo, but I couldn't see anything except for a couple of silhouettes. The colonel flashed some light on it but it didn't help. The light reflected off the photo but 1 pretended to have seen what was on it and I returned it to him.
"This is me and my wife and kids in Makarska in 1983. Those were the fucking times! Who knows if I'll ever be able to see Makarska again in my life!"
Then Markica showed up with a frightened old man in front of him. Somewhere behind our backs I heard somebody sing but it stopped after a few bursts were fired from a gun.
"Hey boss, look what I fucking found!" said Markica and pointed to the old man.
He laid his gun on the ground and grabbed the old man by the neck. He put the old man's head under his arm and pulled out the dagger. The old man was desperately trying to break free of his grasp releasing inarticulate sounds, like a trapped animal. Surprisingly enough his screams didn't sound like begging. Markica managed to cut his neck a little bit, leaving a bloody line which in the dark had an oily black colour. However, the old man managed to cut loose and Markica dropped the dagger which hit the asphalt with a blunt sound.
When Markica managed to get the old man's head under his arm again, the colonel approached them holding out his gun. He cocked his gun, looked at the old man's face for a moment and fired two bullets into his head.
In the next moment, when Markica wandered off into the dark and the old man's body way lying a few meters away from us like a forgotten piece of furniture, the colonel said: "Once, when I was a child, I saw grandpa's dog caught in a bear trap that broke his back legs. Grandpa killed him with his carbine. The dog looked at us just like that old man". He pointed towards the body, and then took a long swig from the bottle.
We sat on the sidewalk for a long time. We could see a dark piece of the sky at the end of the street. The night was dark and only the weak flame coming from the houses burning out like huge candles still resisted the darkness that was swallowing up the town.
Croatia is a small, charming country known today as a prime European tourist destination. However, it has a complicated often turbulent history and is seemingly always destined to be at the crossroads of empires, religions and worldviews, with its current identity and culture incorporating elements from its former Communist, Slavic, Austrian-Hungarian, Catholic, Mediterranean, and European traditions.
Dubravka Ugrešić is one of the most internationally recognizable writers from Croatia, but she has a contentious relationship with her home country, having gone into self-exile in the early 90s. Her recently translated collection of essays, The Age of Skin, touches on topics of of exile and displacement, among others. Read a review of Ugrešić’s latest work of non-fiction, expertly translated by Ellen Elias-Bursac, in the link below .
Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) is arguably Croatia's most renowned painter. Born in the south in Cavtat, he spent some of his most impressionable teenage years in New York with his uncle and his first career was as a sailor, but he soon gave that up due to injury. He went on to receive an education in the fine arts in Paris and began his artistic career there. He lived at various times in New York, San Francisco, Peru, Paris, Cavtat, Zagreb and Prague. His painting style could be classified as Impressionism which incorporated various techniques such as pointilism.
An exhibition dedicated to the works of Vlaho Bukovac will be running in Klovićevi dvori Gallery in Gornji Grad, Zagreb through May 22nd, 2022.
Read a review of Neva Lukić's collection of short stories, Endless Endings, recently translated into English, in World Literature Today.
Zagreb has its fair share of graffiti, often startling passersby when it pops up on say a crumbling fortress wall in the historical center of the city. Along with some well-known street murals are the legendary street artists themselves. Check out the article below for a definitive guide to Zagreb's best street art.
The colorful, eclectic and much beloved Croatian children's cartoon Professor Balthazar was created by Zlatko Grgić and produced from the late 1960s through the 1970s. Now newer generations will be able to enjoy the Professor's magic, whether they speak Croatian or English.
Robert Prosinečki's long and fabled football career includes winning third place in the 1998 World Cup as part of the Croatian national team, stints in Real Madrid and FC Barcelona as well as managerial roles for the Croatian national team, Red Star Belgrade, the Azerbaijani national team and the Bosnian Hercegovinian national team.
Croatian publishing house Sandorf launched their American branch called Sandorf Passage earlier this year.
From strange tales of mysterious murders to suspected criminals hiding out to scams, duels and gambling, Opatija, a favourite seaside escape for Central Europeans at the turn of the last century, routinely filled Austrian headlines and the public's imagination in the early 20th century.
Hailed as the father of 20th century Croatian children's literature, Grigor Vitez (1911-1966) is well known and loved in his homeland. With a new English translation of one of his classic tales AntonTon (AntunTun in Croatian), children around the world can now experience the author's delightful depiction of the strong-minded and silly AntonTon. The Grigor Vitez Award is an annual prize given to the best Croatian children's book of the year.
Have an overabundance of free time, thanks to the pandemic and lockdowns? Yearning to travel but unable to do so safely? Discover the rhythm of life and thought in multiple Eastern European countries through exciting new literature translated into English. From war-torn Ukraine to tales from Gulag inmates to the search for identity by Eastern Europeans driven away from their home countries because of the economic or political situations but still drawn back to their cultural hearths, this list offers many new worlds to explore.
Explore TimeOut's gallery of fascinating and at times thought-provoking art in the great open air gallery of the streets of Zagreb.
Partied too hard last night? Drop by Zagreb's Hangover Museum to feel more normal. People share their craziest hangover stories and visitors can even try on beer goggles to experience how the world looks like through drunken eyes.
How will the futuristic world of 2060 look? How far will technology have advanced, and how will those advancements affect how we live our everyday lives? These are the questions the Zagreb-based magazine Globus asked in a series of articles in 1960, when conceptualizing what advancements society would make 40 years in the future, the then far-off year of 2000. The articles used fantastical predictions about the future to highlight the technological advancements already made by the then socialist Yugoslavia. Take a trip with guide, Jonathan Bousfield, back to the future as envisioned by journalists in 1960s Yugoslavia.
What’s the best way for an open-minded foreigner to get straight to the heart of another culture and get a feel for what makes people tick? Don’t just sample the local food and drink and see the major sights, perk up your ears and listen. There’s nothing that gives away the local flavor of a culture more than the common phrases people use, especially ones that have no direct translation.
Check out a quirky list of untranslatable Croatian phrases from Croatian cultural guide extraordinaire, Andrea Pisac, in the link below:
Just got out of a serious relationship and don't know what to do with all those keepsakes and mementos of your former loved one? The very popular and probably most unique museum in Zagreb, the Museum of Broken Relationships, dedicated to preserving keepsakes alongside the diverse stories of relationships gone wrong, will gladly take them. Find out how the museum got started and take an in-depth look at some of its quirkiest pieces in the link below.
Zagreb is Croatia’s relaxed, charming and pedestrian-friendly capital. Check out Time Out’s definitive Zagreb guide for a diverse set of options of what to explore in the city from unusual museums to legendary flea markets and everything in between.
Diocletian’s Palace is the main attraction in Split, the heart and soul of the city. Because of the palace, Split’s city center can be described as a living museum and it draws in the thousands of tourists that visit the city annually. But how much do we really know about the palace’s namesake who built it, the last ruler of a receding empire? Jonathan Bousfield contends that history only gives us a partial answer.
Cities have served as sources of inspiration, frustration, and discovery for millennia. The subject of sonnets, stories, plays, the power centers of entire cultures, hotbeds of innovation, and the cause of wars, cities are mainstays of the present and the future with millions more people flocking to them every year.
Let the poet, Zagreb native Tomica Bajsić, take you on a lyrical tour of the city. Walk the streets conjured by his graceful words and take in the gentle beauty of the Zagreb of his childhood memories and present day observation.
Dolac, the main city market, is a Zagreb institution. Selling all the fresh ingredients you need to whip up a fabulous dinner, from fruits and vegetables to fish, meat and homemade cheese and sausages, the sellers come from all over Croatia. Positioned right above the main square, the colorful market is a beacon of a simpler way of life and is just as bustling as it was a century ago.
Do you find phrases and sayings give personality and flair to a language? Have you ever pondered how the culture and history of a place shape the common phrases? Check out some common sayings in Croatian with their literal translations and actual meanings below.
Discover Croatia’s rich archaeological secrets, from the well known ancient Roman city of Salona near Split or the Neanderthal museum in Krapina to the often overlooked Andautonia Archaeological Park, just outside of Zagreb, which boasts the excavated ruins of a Roman town or the oldest continuously inhabited town in Europe, Vinkovci.
A little know fact is that Croatia, together with Spain, have the most cultural and historical heritage under the protection of UNESCO, and Croatia has the highest number of UNESCO intangible goods of any European country.
The National Theater in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital, is one of those things which always finds its way to every visitor’s busy schedule.
So you're visiting Zagreb and are curious about it's underground art scene? Check out this guide to Zagreb's street art and explore all the best graffiti artists' work for yourself on your next walk through the city.
Numerous festivals, shows and exhibitions are held annually in Zagreb. Search our what's on guide to arts & entertainment.